Jaén city and around

Jaén city sits at the foot of Santa Catalina hill, with olive groves reaching the last houses. It is a city to explore on foot: the old town climbs narrow streets from the cathedral to the Magdalena and San Juan quarters, and every corner hides a church, a palace or a tavern.

The cathedral

The Cathedral of the Assumption is the masterpiece of Andrés de Vandelvira. Its hall-church plan and Baroque façade served as a model for cathedrals in Spanish America, such as those of Lima, Mexico City and Puebla. Inside is the Holy Face relic, shown to the faithful on Fridays. Join a guided roof tour to see the city from the towers.

Santa Catalina Castle

Above the city, at about 800 metres, stands the fortress conquered by Ferdinand III in 1246. Part of it houses the Parador de Jaén. The most photographed spot is the large white cross at the end of the hill: at sunset you can see the city, the countryside and, on clear days, Sierra Mágina.

Arab baths and the old town

The Villardompardo Palace brings together the 11th-century Arab baths, the Museum of Popular Arts and Customs and the International Museum of Naïve Art. Entry is free and it is one of the city's best visits.

• La Magdalena quarterThe oldest district, with the Magdalena spring that gave birth to the city.
• Church of San IldefonsoGothic, with the chapel of the Virgen de la Capilla, the city's patron saint.
• Arco de San LorenzoA small Mudéjar chapel inside a gate of the old city walls.
• Iberian MuseumOpened in 2017, it displays the Cerrillo Blanco sculptures and the best of Iberian art.

A tapa with every drink

Jaén is one of the Spanish cities where tapas are still free and generous. The classic route covers Calle Cerón, Arco del Consuelo and Bernabé Soriano («la Carrera»): order a beer and snails, flamenquines, pinchos morunos or pipirrana will follow. Go tapa by tapa, bar by bar.

Around the capital

Places worth a stop nearby:

• MartosThe Peña de Martos crag, the Villa castle and the Olive Festival in November.
• La Guardia de JaénA hilltop castle and a Renaissance Dominican convent, 10 km from the capital.
• TorredonjimenoIts castle, the Visigothic Treasure found here and a good brewing tradition.
• PorcunaWhere the Iberian sculptures of Cerrillo Blanco were found; it has a museum and the Boabdil tower.

Festivals in the capital

On the night of 16 January, the San Antón bonfires light up the neighbourhoods and the city runs its international night race. In October, around the 18th, comes the San Lucas Fair.