Sierra Morena
The gateway to Andalusia: gorges, castles, mines and battlefields.
Key points
- Despeñaperros is the historic pass between the Meseta and Andalusia, now a nature park.
- Burgalimar Castle, in Baños de la Encina, is one of the best-preserved Moorish fortresses in Spain.
- Next to Linares lie the ruins of Cástulo, a great Iberian and Roman city.
- Two decisive battles were fought here: Las Navas de Tolosa (1212) and Bailén (1808).
In the north of the province, Sierra Morena separates Andalusia from La Mancha. It is a land of wood pasture, old mines and historic roads: armies, Romantic travellers and the Madrid road have all passed this way. Its mining history and battles make it one of the most interesting parts of Jaén.
Despeñaperros
Despeñaperros Nature Park protects the gorge that leads into Andalusia, with quartzite cliffs such as Los Órganos. There are viewpoints along the old road, walking trails and rock paintings in the Cueva de los Muñecos. Nearby, the Cimbarra waterfall in Aldeaquemada is another spectacular natural site.
Baños de la Encina
Burgalimar Castle keeps 14 towers and almost all of its walls. A stone plaque traditionally dates it to 968, although excavations place it between the 11th and 12th centuries. The village, a listed historic ensemble, also has hermitages, mills and rock paintings in the surrounding hills.
Linares and Cástulo
Linares was one of Europe's great mining towns in the 19th century: its industrial heritage, the Archaeological Museum and the memory of guitarist Andrés Segovia, born here, are worth a visit. Five kilometres away is the archaeological site of Cástulo, an Iberian capital and Roman town where the Mosaic of the Loves was discovered.
Battlefields
- 1212 · Las Navas de Tolosa. On the fields of Santa Elena, the Christian kingdoms defeated the Almohad caliph. The battle interpretation centre explains the day.
- 1808 · Bailén. The first major defeat of a Napoleonic army in open battle. Bailén has a museum devoted to it.
La Carolina and the New Settlements
La Carolina, Guarromán, Carboneros and Santa Elena were founded in the 18th century, when Charles III resettled Sierra Morena with colonists from central Europe. Their straight streets and orderly squares give them away.